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sorry to reply this late, haven’t been around for some time but maybe this helps someone
there is a filter Echo time (or in newer AE version it’s in the folder Time, called Echo) which does quite similar stuff as flame’s average
you need to tweak the settings and it’s painfully slow but it does the job.Combustion isn’t reading your footage at full quality. This seems to be happening always when using quicktime DV files in combustion. All MOV files have a quality flag which isn’t turned on by default. Most apps read them at full quality anyway, but c* isn’t. Now i’m not sure if turning high quality in quicktime qould solve your problem, since it’s a long time since I’ve worked with DV files.
When on a Mac, you AVIs are handled by quicktime, so you get the same problem with AVIS plus there is no high-quality flag. Re-encoding your AVIs will definitely help – I’d recommend using uncompressed TGAs – disk space is almost for free these days and you’ll get much faster interaction (don’t aske me why but c* reads TGAs almost twice as fast as MOVs or AVIS).
There’s a plugin from the foundry called BadTV that does this. i think it is in TinderBox 3.
If you don’t have it you can try this:
make a horizontally stretched fractal noise, cc it to get good contrast and use it for displacing your clip. Use seond fractal noise as a mask for standard noise(maybe blurred noise) that you can try to overlay on top of your picture.This is just a start, you may also try to break image into individual channels, move these a little bit and then add them all back.
another thing to try may be a rolling picture effect on top of all this.
The fastest way is to redord the footage on tape and when capturing back try connecting/disconnecting the cables. however, depending on your capture card and many other things, this may not look like what you want.
IF your final output will be shown on TV you might use 3:2 pulldown. This is a smart frame rate conversion algorithm which works with fields and somehow breaks your full frames down to fields which are re-distributed in a way that you keep sync and don’t get too many artifacts.
So I’d suggest you continue working in 24p and do pulldown after final render. You can do it in after effects or any other compositing application, maybe also in some editing apps.
I live in a PAL country so I don’t work with pulldown every day but hopefully I got it right, if not, please someone correct me.
IF your final output will be shown on TV you might use 3:2 pulldown. This is a smart frame rate conversion algorithm which works with fields and somehow breaks your full frames down to fields which are re-distributed in a way that you keep sync and don’t get too many artifacts.
So I’d suggest you continue working in 24p and do pulldown after final render. You can do it in after effects or any other compositing application, maybe also in some editing apps.
I live in a PAL country so I don’t work with pulldown every day but hopefully I got it right, if not, please someone correct me.
sorry my browser got crazy …
hello
I don’t know how will it look but if you feed your r/g/b channels into keying/matte controls and try to play with shrink and erode, it could be enlarging the black lines. You’ll need to invert footage before and after the processing for the erode control to work and most probably the result will be generally darker.
Another way could be turning gamma down, blurring or medianing the footage, resharpen and try to bring gamma back.
Or you can also try “find edges”, color correct that, maybe degrain for small artifacts and play with blending modes …
hope something helps …
This happened to me too when trying to apply post effetcs on max renders.
When copmuting z-depth values, max ignores transparency textures and acts as if objects were solid.Only suggestion I can give you is to render two passes, one with the transparent object hidden, second with all other objects hidden.
then comp this in combustion.hope this helps
This could be a codec issue, or a problem of rgb/yuv conversion.
What editing app do you use?
To what format are you exporting for combustion/rendering from combustion?If you use avid, it has lots of options for setting up color space conversions on import/export.
I’m not very familiar with LUTs but maybe that could help if all else fails.
If the shiver is caused by noise, you could try de-graining the footage a little.
or try resizing the tracking area, picking other tracking point …shivering could also be caused by blurry tracking point, maybe some sharpening/contrasting could help
Well, I love AE and use it a lot for motion graphics, but for pure compositing (like “Forrest-meets-JFK” kind of effects) and fx on live footage combustion works much better. I’ve done this successfully in AE but I’ve found combustion much more comfortable for this kind of work.
When color-matching, there’s nothing close to c’s integrated color corrector. Yes, you have color finese, but you don’t see your output on broadcast monitor nor you can tweak it in context. Keylight can’t match discreet keyer on bad footage, although I must admit it handles color spills slightly better. Tracking still works better in combusion, although ae has improved a lot. Rotoscoping is much better in combustion than ae. Great tool not found in ae are selections, much more elegant than the approach of duplicating layers and masking. Also, i hate pre-comping all the time and ae’s flowchart view really sucks in comparison to c’s schematic.
At our facility we archive images to digibetas, since 90% of our work is pal and almost all elements come in pal res too. The rest (hi-res images and setups) gets transferred via ftp and burned to DVDs.
We used to do backups to DLTs but reliability wasn’t too great.
instead of nesting you could try effects from “distort” folder, like “flip”, “rotate”, “resize”. They render much faster and don’t resize footage.
800 frames seems way too much for one animation. I’d suggest you to create a a few short loops and put them together in the edit suite, maybe with dissolves and wipes. This way you’ll save lots of rendering time.
As vincelapince suggested, using illustrator or photoshop for basic elements is usually the fastest and safest way.